Depart Reus but Hello Terragona!
FRIDAY, June 6:
As I awoke this morning, my mind was flooded with the power and empire that Roman Catholicism forced into so many countries.
That Power was astounding 500 years ago… The Spanish actually first welcomed the Roman invasion some 200-300 BC because they aided in pushing aside the Arabic Invaders who had controlled Spain for SO long. The first Romans were conquerors, yes, but not in the name of religion. HUNDREDS of years pass and by 1000 ad, The Church has learned to control much of the culture.

**Terragona Cathedral above, and more beautiful details on the statuary hanging on the walls:

The Early Romans were military and merchant invaders as we all know, and seeing their culture planted here is fascinating. Our city to visit today: Terragona. Even from just a couple miles away, you’re still seeing old farms, not much sign of a significant city ahead:

Terragona, however, is quite a city. The romans built a theater on a fabulous hillside…. It’s now almost completely uncovered sited so that the seated audience were at the sea edge looking back to the stage. Spectacular.
Large villages are all forced into building Cathedrals, quarters, gardens, and all that go with establishing residenct Roman / Catholic rulers….yes, by now, it’s the Archbishops, etc., that are calling the rules. Between 1200-1600, every village including tiny farming settlements were building Churches great and small on every hilltop closest to these farms and villages. Often included were towers built for defense. Many of these gothic/medieval constructions included walls around the village or city.
Somehow, the reality of seeing these grand complex relics is stark compared to simply reading about it in a HS textbook. This history was never imagined, and NOW you see it live and real. It is still so real, it is a powerful feeling.
Enough boring lecturing about things everyone knows. It really did make an imprint on me.
Today, we awake to a beautiful day knowing it will be LONG day. We stroll up to our “spot”, La Biando for some welcomes from Mauro, some espresso, and the use of his laptop for a few minutes. We’re joined , by Elena & Emilio, but she soon departs for her last day at the University. He has decided to get us through another day of walking with history.
We do pack, for today we’re checking out of Reus, and will be in Barcelona by nightfall. We Depart for Tarragona with Emilio by train.
Notes on this day:
Within 15 minutes of leaving the train, we are AT this site: The Theater & Coliseum……..!
The theater, built adjacent to the sea itself would have been beautiful in its day:

Next to the theater a Circus? Yep, it meant meant Chariot races were held regularly. The ancient city is being uncovered only now…. Here the huge stadium from outside:

This place saw chariot races during periodic celebrations especially in times of visiting royalty or noblemen. A large tunnel ran from the “circus” to the Cathedral entrance allowing the winner to parade to the ruling class…showing the growing influence of the “church”.
It was early in the 1900’s, without the recognition or appreciation of this history that new buildings were simply built into, over, or even by demolishing the ancient walls. NOW that is impossible. SOME resident homes of Terragona are part OF an ancient wall or archway. Can you imagine THAT as you dine in your courtyard? If you build now, you may well have to leave one wall of your home absolutely alone, because it’s part of the old Roman wall. Cool way to design your interior, eh?
The Cathedral here is mammoth, astounding, and FULL of thousands of art pieces, gigantic tapestries. Unfortunately, this WAS a tourist destination, and NO photos allowed inside. This cathedral is larger than most we know such as Cathedral of St John the Divine in NYC.
Other memorable sites in Terragona here in some pics:

And a fully restored view of the chariot hall:

And finally, a little gargoyle you could just cuddle:

Here’s wall section showing how even the oldest Roman periods were simply added onto into the last century:

Some homes show that they got their permits to build after the zoning restrictions took place:

Many examples of this striking architectural feature, if you’re a lucky home-owner:

Quite the adventure, eh, as time stretched into the afternoon, we KNEW we must leave for BCN. As we descend from this rich experience of ancient Terragona, we asked a local girl for a café’ recommendation. She can’t think of one, we continue on. She turns, yells, comes back remembering the “Petit Tarrocoa”, saying go there, turn here, etc.. There’s NO googling this tiny spot, but we found it.

We sit and wait for it to open at the classic 1:00 hour when all of Spains cities come to a halt for the 3 hour siesta time in Spain. Here we are served as fine a tapas as we enjoyed just the night before…..Before you know it, with Emilio chatting away with owners, and we are being treated quite royally, we think.
Emilio has the Mediterranean delicacy, Seppia (cuttlefish):

So we have yet another fabulous dining experience in an ancient village, in a sort of out of the way part of Spain….NO TOURISTS….we are lucky.
**I have re-learned a basic and true cooking rule: your dish will only be as good as its ingredients. In America, we get used to shopping for bargains….and as a result, in choice of meats, dairy, cooking oil, wines, we sometimes miss enjoying a fine meal simply because we started with poor ingredients. No matter how much we doctor up the dish…..it cannot match beginning with the finest you can buy, and cooking it simply…… Over and over I’m seeing fabulous food that’s been prepared with t eminimum of elements but enjoyed immensely because it was excellent to begin with
**We meet a lovely Spanish girl on bus back to hotel….she’s coming to America, SF, to learn English for 3 weeks….staying in Union Square with family. That was fun, because she was SO excited about her upcoming travels to America.
We are tired from all the walking, and cab it to the Train. It was packed for the commute hour, but we make it, arrive at a place for NEW adventures, Barcelona. Well a bit dogge out, we do unboard, and find a cab to Hotel California. What?
Yes, THE Hotel California, is a gay-friendly hotel in the Barri Gotic District (Gothic Period), is on such narrow streets, it’s more like a little alley. It’s LOTS more than simply a “district” This gothic quarter contains ruins from Medieval, even Roman times, with original walls are still in place near an old Church. It is a thrilling place to simply stroll in the tiny alleys / lanes.
The cab driver drops us two blocks away and points down the alley for us saying our hotel is down there somewhere.
For the first time, we are alone with scant Spanish skills. Will this turn out to be not so easy an experience as Reus because of our lucky friendship with Elena & Emilio? We’re about to find out.








Just the FRAMING of the window is pretty nice………don’t you think?




















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